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How To Repair Marble

An outline of the various stages of restoration, from initial mapping of damage to the tools we use and techniques we apply. We will use a worn, originally satin finished marble island as our example. Due to how worn the surface became with even a satin finish, we determined a dull hone would be more suitable for this high traffic kitchen...
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Assessment of the stone

Before starting the project, it’s important to take a thorough look at the damage to the marble. Key things to look for are the depth of scratches and etches, where they are located and whether special equipment will be needed to access hard to reach spots. Once assessed, it’s helpful to make a quick sketch of the space noting any damage that needs special attention, this includes extremely deep scratches and etches as well as chips that should be prepared and filled before grinding.

• Assess level of wear, specificially the depth and locations of etches and scratches

• Determine equipment accessibility around fixture, corners etc. 
• Map chips and cracks requiring epoxy

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Before starting the project, it’s important to take a thorough look at the damage to the marble. Key things to look for are the depth of scratches and etches, where they are located and whether special equipment will be needed to access hard to reach spots. Once assessed, it’s helpful to make a quick sketch of the space noting any damage that needs special attention, this includes extremely deep scratches and etches as well as chips that should be prepared and filled before grinding. 
Marble countertop etches
By looking closeley at the countertop, we decided the best course of action was to grind with a fairly aggressive diamond in order to ensure all deep etches and scratches were removed

Discussion With Client

At this point, we briefly discuss the expectations for the repair as well as share any suggestions for the finish to promote longevity or to adjust the finish to better suit our clients vision. Regarding expectations this usually involves discussing permanent damage, such as a stain that had penetrated deeply into the material, or a bruise within the stone that cannot be repaired. Being upfront with you about our own expectations and capabilities makes for an honest and straightforward experience. With finishes, we will often ask clients the type of traffic their floor or countertop sees and whether a more durable finish is suggested, even if it’s only for a few years. Oftentimes we will hone a countertop if there are young children in the home with the plan to eventually re-polish it once they are older and a bit more careful not to spill things onto the counter. We make time to also answer any questions or concerns that may have come up with regards to the process, products used and expected timeframe for the work.

At this point, we briefly discuss the expectations for the repair as well as share any suggestions for the finish to promote longevity or to adjust the finish to better suit our clients vision. Regarding expectations this usually involves discussing permanent damage, such as a stain that had penetrated deeply into the material, or a bruise within the stone that cannot be repaired. Being upfront with you about our own expectations and capabilities makes for an honest and straightforward experience. With finishes, we will often ask clients the type of traffic their floor or countertop sees and whether a more durable finish is suggested, even if it’s only for a few years. Oftentimes we will hone a countertop if there are young children in the home with the plan to eventually re-polish it once they are older and a bit more careful not to spill things onto the counter. We make time to also answer any questions or concerns that may have come up with regards to the process, products used and expected timeframe for the work.

• Expectations of final finish/lustre

• Discuss longevity and ease of maintenance

• Estimation on time-frame
• Product attributes, such as odours, toxticity and curing times

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At this point, we briefly discuss the expectations for the repair as well as share any suggestions for the finish to promote longevity or to adjust the finish to better suit our clients vision. Regarding expectations this usually involves discussing permanent damage, such as a stain that had penetrated deeply into the material, or a bruise within the stone that cannot be repaired. Being upfront with you about our own expectations makes for an honest and straightforward experience. Regarding finishes, we will often ask clients the type of traffic their floor or countertop sees and whether a more durable finish may be beneficial, even if it’s only for a few years. We can always change the material back to it's original finish whether polished or honed. We make time to also answer any questions or concerns that may have come up with regards to the process, products used and expected timeframe for the work. 

Preparation of the Work Area

Before bringing equipment into the space, clean drop cloths are put down wherever we are working or want to be sure doesn’t get dirty. Where possible, we use reusable, washable cloth drop sheets in leu of plastic to keep our environmental impact as low as possible. The next step is taping seams, edges, and fixtures. Like most detailed work, “it’s all in the prep”. In this case we put a tape wall across the edges of the countertop. Tape prep starts with a solvent wash across the edges to promote adhesion and prevent leaks. Applying a tape wall is time consuming, but allows us to work cleanly without putting rough layers of plastic across the cabinets throughout the kitchen, this is again to keep our waste down. We tape all junctions between our drop sheets and the work area. At this point we bring in our equipment.

•  Drop cloths around work area
•  Edge taping for water splash protection

  Protection of fixtures and adjoining surfaces

  Retrieve and allocate equipment

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Before bringing equipment into the space, clean drop cloths are put down wherever we are working or want to be sure doesn’t get dirty. Where possible, we use reusable, washable cloth drop sheets in leu of plastic to keep our environmental impact as low as possible. The next step is taping seams, edges, and fixtures. Like most detailed work, “it’s all in the prep”. In this case we put a tape wall across the edges of the countertop. Tape prep starts with a solvent wash across the edges to promote adhesion and prevent leaks. Applying a tape wall is time consuming, but allows us to work cleanly without putting rough layers of plastic across the cabinets throughout the kitchen, this is again to keep our waste down. We tape all junctions between our drop sheets and the work area. At this point we bring in our equipment.
marble countertop
In order to reduce waste, tape walls surround only the edges of the stone rather than putting plastic across all surfaces surrounding the work area. Fabric drop cloths are washed and reused. 

Main Equipment

Our resurfacing and polishing equipment consists of various small grinding machines, full sized countertop machines and both single drive rotation and planetary floor machines. In essence they all perform the same task, but are used to access different sized areas or apply heavier or more aggressive grinding when needed. Water collection is done with powerful wet vacuums, typically with variable suction. Our tools are locally sourced whenever possible.

•  Various sizes of grinding machines and accompanying drives, diamond discs and pads

• We use both single disc and planetary equipment. 
• Variable suction wet  vacuums are used for water collection 

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Our resurfacing and polishing equipment consists of various small grinding machines, full sized countertop machines and both single drive rotation and planetary floor machines. In essence they all perform the same task, but are used to access different sized areas or apply heavier or more aggressive grinding when needed. Water collection is done with powerful wet vacuums, typically with variable suction. Our tools are locally sourced whenever possible.  

Diamond Discs

Removing damage from a surface is a delicate process. Removing too much material will cause deflections and dips in the surface, while removing too little won’t remove scratches or etches. We use premium resin bonded diamond abrasive discs. These discs are composed of various grits of diamond abrasive, stabilized in a resin. The shape of the disc is meant to keep water under the machine and prevent overheating of both the resin and the stone. In hard to reach places we have small versions of these discs as well as hand pads and other specialized tools.

• Premium resin bonded diamond abrasive discs

• Discs composed of various grits of abrasive stabilized in a resin

• Used in succession of consecutively smoother grits until desired smoothness is achieved 

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Removing damage from a surface is a delicate process. Removing too much material will cause deflections and dips in the surface, while removing too little won’t remove scratches or etches. We use premium resin bonded diamond abrasive discs. These discs are composed of various grits of diamond abrasive, stabilized in a resin. The shape of the disc is meant to keep water under the machine and prevent overheating of both the resin and the stone. In hard to reach places we have small versions of these discs as well as hand pads and other specialized tools.
Our resin diamond discs. Closeup shows the diamond abrasives stabilized in the resin.

Wet Grinding

• Always done with water, preventing airborne dust 

• First step in the resurfacing process
• Removes damaged material, and reveals undamaged natural stone beneath

• Consecutively less aggressive diamonds until smoothness is achieved

• 1-8 stages of grinding depending on the depth of the damage and material being serviced: Typically 3 stages

• Colour matched epoxy should any natural holes appear in the stone

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Grinding is the first step of most marble restoration projects. Grinding involves removing material from the surface starting with an aggressive diamond grinding disc, cleaning the area, and proceeding with consecutively smoother discs until the desired level of smoothness is achieved. There are anywhere from 1 to 8 grinding stages depending on the original condition and desired finish.
Using the information from the assessment in step one, we decide how aggressively the countertop needs to be ground. Usually this step starts at a 200 or 400 grit diamond disc. If there are isolated areas of excessive damage, we will grind and feather those sections independently, preventing unnecessary grinding. The depth of this initial grind is at most 1/32nd of an inch (usually far less), and we always attempt to spread the grind into a wide area to prevent deflections in the final reflection. All grinding is done with water. The water catches the material being removed, and is disposed of without ever becoming airborne. After several grinding steps we move onto either honing or polishing.
Resin diamond grinding
Above we are grinding an islated deep scratch before moving on to our full sized countertop machine.  The area is generously feathered to ensure dips and depressions are minimized in the final finish. Water is always used while grinding, the water captures the ground material and prevents dust.

Marble Honing Techniques

• Tailored level of dullness

• Fully mechanical process

• No acids or powders used

• Smooth to the touch

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Honing is done mechanically with a soft diamond impregnated pad. These pads are not meant to remove very much material, instead they smoothen the microscopic ridges left by the last resin grinding stage. These pads leave a consistent, even glow. It's important to mention that we only perform mechanical honing, as opposed to chemical honing. Chemical honing requires the use of acids to dull the surface, which is very easy to perform from a labour perspective, but comes with the unfortunate side effect of pitting and opening the pores of the stone. Ultimately the acids used are taking advantage of the inherent vulnerability of the stone, and not an appropriate treatment in our opinion. One nasty side effect of chemical honing only shows up if the material is later polished, as the pits left in the stone by the acid may remain present in the polish. Needless to say, we've abandoned any chemical treatments to provide higher quality long term results, and not create headaches should the stone be converted to a polished finish later. Our approach of mechanical honing allows for a very controlled grinding of the surface, and does not leave pits or roughness in the material nor weaken the bonds in the substrate of the stone. Honing powders are also avoided, they work in a similar fashion to diamond impregnated pads, but are messy and require management of the volume of powder. Honing powder can also be unnecessarily wasteful if not used correctly, and is prone to contaminating other tools used later in the project.
We can adjust the level of dullness to your preference. Above both countertops are made of the same type of marble and have been photographed in similar lighting. The first is treated to a deep (dull) hone. The second has a smoother and more reflective (patina) finish. 
Visit Honed Finish Gallery

Marble Polishing Techniques

• Polishing compounds are mixed with water to prevent dust
• Specialized pads and compounds depending on the material being polished

• Typically 3 steps of polishing

• No crystalizing or dry polishing

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Polishing is done using fine compounds designed to smoothen the stone to a high gloss finish. These compounds are typically mixed with water, and stabilized in one of several soft pads put under our equipment. Which compound is used is dependent on the material being serviced, granite polishing compounds are very different from those used for marble. We do not offer any crystallizing polishing services. Briefly,  the crystalizing process uses acids to soften the stone and spread it’s minerals smoothly across the surface. We avoid crystallizing for a few reasons, firstly the reaction between the steel wool used and acid create potentially harmful gases, secondly: stone should never be treated with a process that closes the pores from breathing, as trapping moisture within the stone causes long term degradation of the material. One other big reason we avoid dry polishing is because it generates dust. We only use wet polishing techniques. This is a dust free process, and significantly reduces or eliminates chemical exposure for our team as well as our clients. 
Polishing is never done in one step, it typically involves 1-2 highly concentrated passess across the surface, followed by lighter passes with reduced volume of compounds or just water.
The first image shows three stages of consecutively smoother diamond grinding. The next image is after polishing.
Visit Polished Finish Gallery

Cleaning & Teardown

• Cleaning and neutralizing
• Final approval of lustre
• Removal of tape and fixture protection

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Once we are finished resurfacing the material to it's final finish, whether honed or polished, we commence with clean up and tear down. Typically we wash the surface using microfiber cloths or mops and neutral detergents. The cleaning process removes all remaining marble dust or compounds used during the restoration. This is also an opportunity to check grout for cleanliness and give the entire area a final look over before moving to sealing. 

Sealing

• Clear or colour enhancing
• Food safe

• Non-coating

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The goal of the sealing process is to apply as much product as the material is able to absorb. We apply a very heavy volume of sealer to the surface, allow it to penetrate into the stone, then buff the excess sealer before it dries. By doing this, we ensure the sealer fills the pores of the stone and blocks contaminants from staining the surface permanently. In most cases, a clear, penetrating sealer is used. Sealer does not coat the stone, change the appearance or prevent etching. A colour enhancing sealer is not commonly used, but is essential for certain applications. Dark stone when left honed will not retain much of its richness of colour. This is remedied by a colour enhancing sealer. All of our sealers are solvent based, non yellowing, non coating and food safe after their prescribed cure time. 

Final Results

• Remove equipment and protection
• Check surface one last time
• Provide care instructions

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After wrapping up, we will provide both a general care guide as well as more specific instructions on how to care for your particular stone.  For showers, kitchens or other areas prone to moisture or staining, we typically suggest the material be sealed every 2-4 years. For floors, countertops and other areas less prone to permanent damage, maintenance is based on their aesthetic condition. 
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