FAQ

An etch occurs when an acidic substance reacts with an acid-sensitive stone such as marble, limestone or other calcite-based materials. Unlike a stain, an etch is not something sitting on top of the stone—it is a physical change to the surface itself. On polished stone, the affected area becomes microscopically rougher and reflects light differently, which is why etches usually appear as dull spots or rings.

No. An etch is not dirt or residue sitting on top of the stone; it is physical damage to the surface caused by a chemical reaction. Cleaning products will not remove it.

To correct an etch, the affected area must be mechanically refinished and brought back to the surrounding polished, honed or patina finish.

Etches are repaired by mechanically refinishing the affected area and restoring it to the surrounding finish. This may involve light grinding or honing with fine abrasives, followed by polishing where necessary.

The exact process depends on the depth of the etch, the type of stone and whether the surrounding surface is polished, honed or patina.

No. Penetrating sealers are designed to reduce the absorption of liquids and contaminants into the stone, helping protect against staining. They do not create a protective surface coating, so they cannot prevent acidic substances from reacting with marble, limestone or other calcite-based stones.

Sealer helps with staining; it does not make acid-sensitive stone etch-proof.

Usually, no. Water spots are often mineral deposits left behind when water evaporates from the surface. Calcium and other dissolved minerals can remain as a visible ring or cloudy residue, particularly in areas with hard water.

Unlike an etch, this residue is sitting on the surface rather than being damage to the stone itself. Start with warm water, a microfibre cloth and a stone-safe neutral cleaner. Avoid acidic hard-water removers, which can turn a mineral deposit into an actual etch on marble or limestone.

If the deposit does not come off with gentle cleaning, it may require more careful mechanical removal or professional treatment.

Stains occur when a substance penetrates into the stone and leaves discolouration below the surface. Oils, food, cosmetics, rust and other contaminants can all cause staining depending on the material and how porous it is.

A stain and an etch can occur at the same time. For example, red wine spilled on unsealed marble may both react with the surface and leave colour behind in the stone.

Marble floors should be cleaned with clean water and a small amount of pH-neutral cleaner using a well-wrung mop. Avoid soaking the floor or leaving standing water on the surface, as excess moisture can leave mineral deposits or streaking as it dries.

Spin mops work well because they make it easy to control how much water remains in the mop head. It is also best to keep a dedicated mop for natural stone rather than using the same mop on hardwood or with other cleaning products, which can introduce residues that are not suitable for marble.

Use a clean microfibre cloth with warm water and a small amount of pH-neutral cleaner. Wipe up spills promptly and avoid acidic, abrasive or strongly alkaline cleaners that can damage the finish.

For dried residue that does not come off with normal cleaning, use a stone-safe cleaner and gentle mechanical removal rather than aggressive scraping. Razor blades can scratch polished marble if used incorrectly, so I would not recommend them as a general homeowner cleaning method.

No. Vinegar is acidic and can etch marble, limestone and other calcite-based stones. Even diluted vinegar can dull a polished finish.

Use a pH-neutral cleaner formulated for natural stone instead.

Marble showers should be cleaned with pH-neutral products and gentle mechanical agitation rather than acidic hard-water or soap-scum removers, which can etch the stone. A white nylon brush or non-abrasive pad with a stone-safe neutral cleaner is usually a good starting point.

For heavier soap buildup or mineral deposits, avoid aggressive scraping or household descalers. If gentle cleaning is not enough, the surface may need more controlled mechanical cleaning or professional treatment.

Assuming the shower is properly sealed, one of the most important things you can do is allow the stone to dry between uses. Standing water can contribute to mineral buildup, discolouration and moisture-related problems in grout and joints.

Using a squeegee after each shower to remove most of the water from the walls and floor can significantly reduce drying time. It is also a good idea to avoid leaving shampoo bottles, soap and other products sitting directly on the stone, where moisture and product residue can become trapped.

Silicone joints should be inspected regularly and replaced when they begin to separate, deteriorate or develop persistent mould. Good ventilation, regular stone-safe cleaning and keeping the shower as dry as practical will go a long way toward preserving the stone.

There is no single sealing schedule that applies to every natural stone. How often a surface needs to be resealed depends on the stone, its porosity, the type of sealer, the finish and how heavily the area is used.

Kitchen countertops, showers, mudrooms and other surfaces exposed to water, oils or contaminants should be checked periodically for absorption. If the stone begins darkening quickly when exposed to water, it may be time to reseal.

Dense materials such as many granites and quartzites may require sealing far less often than more porous stones such as limestone or travertine. Rather than sealing automatically every two years, we recommend assessing the actual condition of the stone and resealing when needed.

Yes. Natural stone countertops can be used for everyday food preparation, provided they are properly maintained and the sealer used is suitable for food-contact areas.

Keep in mind that marble, limestone and other calcite-based stones can still be etched by acidic foods such as citrus, vinegar, wine and tomatoes. Oils and other contaminants can also stain more porous stone if the surface is not adequately sealed.

Sealer helps reduce absorption, but it does not make the stone stain-proof or etch-proof.

Yes. Scratches can usually be repaired by mechanically refinishing the stone until the damaged layer has been removed, then restoring the surface to match the surrounding finish.

Deeper scratches require more material to be removed. In those cases, a wider area is often refinished so the correction blends gradually into the surrounding surface and does not leave a visible low spot or distortion in the finish.

es. Chips and cracks can often be repaired using high-quality epoxy resin that is colour matched on-site to the surrounding stone. Once cured, the repair is shaped, ground and refinished to blend with the original surface or edge profile.

Crack repairs to the stone itself are generally cosmetic rather than structural. If cracking is being caused by movement in the substrate, installation or surrounding structure, the underlying problem should be addressed before the stone is repaired to reduce the chance of the crack returning.

Yes. Marble and many other natural stones can be professionally refinished to restore their existing appearance or changed to a different finish entirely.

A polished surface can be converted to a honed or patina finish, and in many cases those finishes can later be returned to a higher polish if desired. The exact process depends on the stone, its condition and the finish being produced.